Monday, 24 March 2014

Interesting facts about Amethyst

Interesting facts about Amethyst


Amethyst is the most highly valued member of the Quartz mineral family, and it has Purple hues that vary from very pale to dark.  The medium-dark to dark tones are considered the most desirable and of course are quite a bit more expensive than the lighter tones.  The finest gems usually come from the Elahara mines in Sri Lanka, and the Pau d'Arco mines in Brazil.

These fine gemstones are deep dark and rich in color, with all the fire in sparkle you would want to see.  Most Amethysts on the market are relatively free of inclusions. Amethyst is heat sensitive, excessive heat could turn the stone colorless, or it may produce a Citrine or green color, whereas an abrupt temperature change may fracture the stone. Chemicals that could attack this gem are hydrofluoric acids, ammonium fluoride, and alkalies.

Amethyst is produced in abundance from the state of Minas Gerais in Brazil where it occurs in large geodes within volcanic rocks. Many of the hollow agates of southwestern Brazil and Uruguay contain a crop of amethyst crystals in the interior. Artigas, Uruguay and neighboring Brazilian state Rio Grande do Sul are large world producers exceeding in quantity Minas Gerais, as well as Mato Grosso, Espirito Santo, Bahia, and Ceará states, all amethyst producers of importance in Brazil.

It is also found and mined in South Korea. The largest opencast amethyst vein in the world is in Maissau, Lower Austria. Much fine amethyst comes from Russia, especially from near Mursinka in the Ekaterinburg district, where it occurs in drusy cavities in granitic rocks. Many localities in south India yield amethyst. One of the largest global amethyst producers is Zambia in southern Africa with an annual production of about 1000 tonnes.

Amethyst occurs at many localities in the United States.[11] Among these may be mentioned: the Mazatzal Mountain region in Gila and Maricopa Counties, Arizona; Red Feather Lakes, near Ft Collins, Colorado; Amethyst Mountain, Texas; Yellowstone National Park; Delaware County, Pennsylvania; Haywood County, North Carolina; Deer Hill and Stow, Maine and in the Lake Superior region of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, and Ontario in Canada. Amethyst is relatively common in Ontario, and in various locations throughout Nova Scotia. The largest amethyst mine in North America is located in Thunder Bay, Ontario.

Amethyst mines can be found in Canada, Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia, Russia, India, Zambia and other African countries. The largest of these mines are in Brazil. Unfortunately, care must be taken when buying Amethyst stones as it is possible to come across some fake stones. Luckily, these fakes can be spotted as the stone will look flawless and too perfect. Natural occurring amethysts will have some flaws inside of the gem indicated that it must have originated in a mine as opposed to being grown.

Up until the 18th century, amethyst was included in the cardinal, or most valuable, gemstones (along with diamond, sapphire, ruby, and emerald). However, since the discovery of extensive deposits in locations such as Brazil, it has lost most of its value.

Collectors look for depth of color, possibly with red flashes if cut conventionally. As amethyst is readily available in large structures the value of the gem is not primarily defined by carat weight, this is different to most gemstones where the carat weight exponentially increases the value of the stone. The biggest factor in the value of amethyst is the colour displayed.

The highest grade amethyst (called "Deep Russian") is exceptionally rare and therefore, when one is found, its value is dependent on the demand of collectors. It is, however, still orders of magnitude lower than the highest grade sapphires or rubies (padparadscha sapphire or "pigeon's blood" ruby).

Wednesday, 19 March 2014

Interesting facts about Alexandrite

Interesting facts about Alexandrite

                                                                                           
Alexandrite changes color from green in daylight to red in incandescent light. The first time you see it, it is hard to believe your eyes!  Alexandrite was first discovered in Czarist Russia, in the Ural mountains, on April 3 1834, when several crystals were found in Tokovanya deposits.  The name “Alexandrite” was coined by mineralogist Dr. Nordenskjöld (Finnish by birth but he worked for the Russian Czar). Since the old Russian imperial colors were red and green it was named after Czar Alexandr II on the occasion of his coming of age in 1842.  Genuine Alexandrite is one of the world's rarest and most coveted Gemstones, it's so rare that most people have never even seen a genuine Top Quality Alexandrite.

Alexandrite is in the Chrysoberyl mineral family and is one of the most fascinating gemstones throughout history. Alexandrite is the variety of Chrysoberyl that displays a change-of-color from green to red. A distinct color change is the primary qualification for a Chrysoberyl to be considered alexandrite. Although alexandrite is strongly trichroic, its color change has nothing to do with pleochroism. Instead, like all other color-change gems, it results in a near-equal transmission of the blue-green and red portions of the spectrum, coupled with strong absorption in the yellow. Thus its color is dependant on the spectral strength of the light source. Incandescent light is strongly tilted to the red end, thus causing alexandrite to appear reddish. Daylight, is more equally balanced. Since our eyes are most sensitive to green light, the balance is tipped to the green side. The strength of the color change is related to the difference in the areas of transmission, relative to the absorption in the yellow. The greater the difference, the stronger the color change.  The color is actually caused by Chromium.



A color change occurs in very few gemstones. For alexandrite, the quality of the color change is paramount. While the holy grail is a gem whose color changes like a traffic light from green to red, such a stone has yet to be found. In fine examples, the change is typically one from a slightly bluish green to a purplish red. The quality of color change is often referred to by dealers in a percentage basis, with 100% change being the ideal. Stones that display a change of 30% or less are of marginal interest and are arguably not even alexandrite. Significant brown or gray components in either of the twin colors will lower value dramatically.

The natural color change in Alexandrite ranges from various shades of Green (blue-greens, kelly-greens, olive-greens, teal-greens, etc.) when the gem is under "fluorescent" lighting, or in natural outdoor light "in the shade" (not direct sunlight)... then the color changes to various shades of Red (burgundy-reds, purplish-reds, reddish-purples, violetish-purples, amethyst, etc.) when exposed to light in a room with only incandescent light, tungsten light, or candlelight (a flashlight will bring out the color change too).

To get the maximum color change effect the gem is best viewed in a dark room with no outdoor light at all, then turn on a fluorescent light to see the green shade, then turn on a standard incandescent light bulb with the fluorescent light off to see the reddish shade.  You can cycle the lights back and forth to see the distinct color change.  Alexandrite will normally darken when taken out into direct sunlight, since it is subjected all the colors in the spectrum,  also if subjected to several types of lighting sources at the same time the colors may twinkle with both the red and the green color bouncing around different facets in the stone.  When the primary color has a bit of brownish in with the green, this is due to the bleeding of the two colors.  Typically this is referred to as the percentage of color change.  The higher the color change percentage, the more expensive the gem.

Wednesday, 2 October 2013

Tanzanite by Peter Bancroft

Tanzanite by Peter Bancroft

Merelani Mine, Arusha, Tanzania

Editor’s Note: We are pleased to reprint this selection from Peter Bancroft’s classic book, Gem and Crystal Treasures (1984) Western Enterprises/Mineralogical Record, Fallbrook, CA, 488 pp.


Gem & Crystal Treasures by Peter Bancroft cover image
Zoisite was the mineral name for a series of opaque to translucent varieties, of which only two are used as gemstones: massive pink colored thulite and a brilliant apple-green zoisite (which also occurs in grayish-white, gray, yellowish-brown, and greenish-gray). Named for Czechoslovakian Baron Zois von Edelstein, zoisite never really achieved prominence as a gem material.
Then in March 1966, an Arusha tailor named Sousa discovered a deep blue gemstone at a place later known as the Merelani mine. Using sophisticated equipment experts found that the gem was not “sapphire” as suspected, but an astounding variety of zoisite. Tiffany and Company, in a vigorous sales promotion, named the stone “tanzanite” after the country of origin, and the name has since been generally adopted.
The Merelani deposit was difficult to reach in the Usumburu Mountains that border the Umba Valley of northern Tanzania. This region, a vast arid plain broken by hills and small mountain peaks, is inhabited by the pastoral Masai people. The Merelani lies between two landmarks just south of the Kenya border – Mt. Kilimanjaro and the Olduvai Gorge made famous by paleoanthropologist Louis Leakey. The nearest town of any consequence is Arusha, about 50 kilometers to the northwest.
Small Landing Field Near Mt. Kilimanjaro photo image
Small landing field near Mt. Kilimanjaro. Photo: Peter Bancroft
In 1975 the author met A.H. (Brick) Stange who provided a pilot and a single-engine airplane for the flight from Nairobi to Arusha. We planned two trips – first a visit by plane to the ruby mine near Longido and the second in jeeps to the tanzanite mine in Merelani.
Property Owner photo image
One of the original claim holders who lost his property when the Tanzanian government nationalized the mine. Photo: Edward Swoboda (1967)
The trip to the ruby mine was uneventful except for a painful bite from a tsetse fly. Even though my seat belt was fastened, I jumped hard enough to bang my head on the cockpit ceiling and the pilot lectured me on how dangerous it was to make such a violent movement while flying at a low altitude. Just as he concluded his rebuke, a fly bit him on the neck. There was an immediate plethora of epithets, somewhat superior to mine, but no more lectures! Upon reaching the mine we noticed a great wall of schist marked by green streaks of zoisite. Closer inspection revealed bright red, nearly opaque 2 to 4-centimeter ruby crystals imbedded in the zoisite. Large chunks of the red and green material were blasted loose for shipment by truck to Arusha.
A few days later our party left in two jeeps for Merelani. Our route passed through a brushy countryside dotted with trees, and from time to time, we passed Masai villages and herds of Brahman cattle tended by one or two small boys. Upon reaching the mine, we were admitted by armed guards. The tsetse flies were replaced by numerous non-biting flies that landed upon any part of the body which exuded moisture – the corner of the eye or mouth and exposed parts when relieving oneself. They were a constant irritant and a real nuisance.
Tanzanite Rough and Cut photo image
Tanzanite Size: 220 carat faceted, cushion cut stone. Locality: Merelani; Collection: Edward Swoboda; Photo: Harold and Erica Van Pelt
Guards armed with rifles and shotguns were conspicuously posted at vantage points about the workings. Digging was by the open-pit method, with a few veins being explored by short tunnels. A small padlocked iron box sat nearby. When a miner discovered a crystal or segment, he was to drop it into the box. However, the chances are that many were swallowed or thrown into a bush for recovery later. Miners were paid next to nothing, and this provided the incentive to high-grade stones.
Masai Family photo image
Masai family near Merelani mine. Photo: Peter Bancroft
Tanzanite crystals occur sparsely in a heavily metamorphosed zone of tough rock. They are prismatic, heavily striated and often possess good terminations. The mineral is fairly soft (6 to 6.5 on Mohs’ hardness scale) and fractures rather easily. It is common to expose a fine crystal deeply imbedded in rock, then watch it break into small pieces during removal. The search for crystals is accomplished with picks, iron bars, shovels, and compressed-air jackhammers, a system that takes a high toll of fine gems. Clean stones which will facet 2-carat or larger gems are quite rare, and days pass between discoveries.
Miner Examining Tanzanite Crystal photo image
Miner examining tanzanite crystal. Photo: Edward Gübelin
Tanzanite occurs in colors of gray, brown, violet, blue, reddish-purple, and tints of green. The gem is of interest because of its exceptional pleochroism. Rotated in different directions a single stone will exhibit three outstanding changes of color, from reddish purple to blue to deep purple. When placed in ovens and heated to 620°C, the reddish purple crystals alter to a rich violet-blue; some turn to a deep blue resembling sapphire. But heating reduces pleochroism.
Miner Breaking Tanzanite from Mother Rock photo image
Miner breaking tanzanite from mother rock. Photo: Edward Gübelin
Tanzanite in large flawless sections appeared with some regularity during the early days of mining. Lovely gems of 20 to 50 carats were not unusual. One of the largest stones, a splendid faceted flawless gem weighing 122.7 carats, is part of the Smithsonian Institution's collection.
Following Tanzanite Vein Into Hill photo image
Following tanzanite vein into hill.
Photo: Peter Bancroft
When first mined, fine stones could be purchased in Tanzania, Kenya, and the United States for as little as $20 a carat. By 1984 clean gems wholesaled at better than $1000 a carat, an indication of increasing interest in a gem already in short supply. In 1978 a massive cholera epidemic struck northern Tanzania and interrupted production of rubies, garnets, sapphires, chrome tourmaline, chrysoprase, and tanzanite. In addition, most of the known gem deposits were playing out. As a result, decreasing production has caused a scarcity of quality gemstones and a rapid rise in their value.
Magnificent Untreated Tanzanite Crystal photo image
Magnificent untreated tanzanite crystal.
Crystal: Bill Larson collection; Photo: Jeff Scovil

Miners Working a Merelani Vein Under Watchful Eye of Armed Guard
Miners working a Merelani vein under watchful eye of armed guard. Photo: Peter Bancroft

Screening Day's Output of Tanzanite photo image
Screening day’s output of tanzanite. Photo: Peter Bancroft

Thursday, 12 September 2013

Rhodium plated jewelry - Yes or No??

Many buyers ask why .925 sterling silver is rhodium plated.  

The improved appearance of rhodium plating was initially noticed because of its extra beauty to the naked eye, but as the points below will show, it not only enhances the beauty of silver, it helps ensure the longest-lasting, most durable finish for your jewelry. The result:  stunning jewelry that stays stunning much longer than un-plated  jewelry.

Rhodium is considered best in class of all the platinum metals family for resistance to corrosion and tarnish, and is the most tarnish resistant member of the platinum metals group.  Rhodium will also remain bright and shiny under most environmental conditions. Not surprisingly, of all the metals in this group, rhodium is by far the most expensive to utilize.  Rhodium is nearly 4x as expensive as platinum, and 9x as expensive as gold.

As a protective coating, rhodium finishes virtually eliminate any chance of surface discoloring even when exposed to extreme environmental conditions under normal temperatures. The surface hardness of plated rhodium is also the highest of the precious metals, and is thus highly resistant to incidental scratching and abrasion. Rhodium plated finishes are best in class for wearability among the precious metals.  In reality, silver is shinier than rhodium, but silver is also a softer and more malleable metal, and can be scratched and dented more easily. So jewelers may choose to rhodium plate some jewelry items to make them more durable.

Additionally, rhodium is hypoallergenic. White gold and even sterling silver normally employ nickel to provide the whiteness of white gold, however, approximately 20% of women will have some form of allergy to nickel. Thus, by rhodium plating, a possible allergen is removed from contacting your skin.  The one exception to that is on stud earrings. Because the nut of the earring drags along the post, the post will not remain plated for long. In those instances where nickel may be a problem, we recommend using plain sterling or platinum earrings.

Rhodium plating can dramatically increase the long term durability, brightness and luster of the finish. Because it is a plating, it will wear off over time.   How soon depends on how much wear and tear the jewelry item takes.  When the rhodium plating begins to disappear from a silver or platinum jewelry item, it will be much less noticeable because the underlying metal will look gray, not yellowish.  However, virtually any jeweler can quickly re-plate your jewelry, usually for around $45, to bring back the original shine and luster that rhodium can provide.

Rhodium plating should not be done without training, appropriate safety equipment, good ventilation, and concern about the workers’ health and safety.  Some manufacturers have become concerned about how this process can harm the environment if improperly used or disposed of, and have begun to use alternatives such as Argen.  Others use  processes which keep using  the same bath for 5 to 10 years and more, with simple continuous filtration systems and good cleaning procedures.  It is not very expensive, and certainly cheaper than starting a new bath every time the bath gets contaminated.  We applaud those who manufacture or use rhodium plating systems safely, and will support those who chose to use alternatives which keep all our systems clean and safe.

Keep in mind that a rhodium plate will not eliminate dents and scratches, it will only make the jewelry more shiny and bright (some would even say more expensive looking!). Remember to ask your jeweler if he or she is planning to clean and polish your jewelry before its re-plated, if not then ask for it. The smoother the jewelry item is when starting, the more shiny it will look after the rhodium plating process.

Tuesday, 27 August 2013

Synthetic Opal - Hot or Not??

Opal

Within the small family of jewels that “play with light”, opals surely claim top honors for variety as well as sheer beauty. The opal’s fascination deepens when one realizes just how many kinds there are and how they differ. From natural to synthetic to frank imitations, the range is nothing short of amazing.
All naturally occurring opals fall into one of two classes. Precious opals are the ones that produce flashes of iridescent color(s) when light strikes its surface at various angles. Any opal that does not exhibit colorplay is classified as common opal. Although both precious and common opals are made of the same material, it is the actual arrangement of all those microscopic crystals of silica that determines whether or not the stone will diffract light into various colors of the spectrum. Common opal does not have the optimum arrangement of crystals to produce this effect, but precious opal does. As the terms imply, precious opal occurs far more rarely in nature than does the other!
The internal structure of precious opal makes it diffract light; depending on the conditions in which it formed it can take on many colors. Precious opal ranges from clear through white, gray, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, magenta, rose, pink, slate, olive, brown, and black. Of these hues, the reds against black are the most rare, whereas white and greens are the most common. It varies in optical density from opaque to semi-transparent. For gemstone use, its natural color is often enhanced by placing thin layers of opal on a darker underlying stone, like basalt. Common opal, called "potch" by miners, does not show the display of color exhibited in precious opal.

Synthetic/lab created Opal

 There is a difference between “synthetic” opal and “imitation” or “faux” opal. Synthetic opals are made in a laboratory from the same chemical (silicon dioxide) that occurs in natural opals. The process was developed in the 1930s and thus synthetic opals have been around for about eighty years! Some of them look very much like natural precious opal but there are several ways to tell them apart: (1) The colors in synthetic opal are usually brighter and occur in larger patches, often with a sort of ‘snakeskin’ pattern (2) Under magnification the color patterns will appear more regularly geometric than those in a natural opal and (3) The overall pattern appears more ‘neat and orderly’ than those in the naturally formed stones.

Imitation/faux Opal

 This includes every “opal-appearing” stone that is not made of (or from) silicon dioxide, hydrophane (Welo opal) or hyalite (water opal - which leaves us with the faux opals made of either glass, acrylic plastic, or resin.

Why should I buy synthetic opal jewelry?

Synthetic opal jewelry is an excellent alternative to natural opal jewelry for a number of reasons.
The first to spring to mind is the beautiful array of colors and patterns that are displayed in very rare natural opal are readily available in created opal.
The synthetic opal is much more durable and harder than its natural counterpart so breakages and longevity are also a plus.

Finally, the price. You can obtain a beautiful piece of opal jewelry for a fraction of the cost.

N.B. We list synthetic opal as OPALINE on our website. When we advertise genuine opal jewelry, it will be clearly stated in the description. 

Assorted opal colors

Monday, 8 July 2013

Dingle Dangle!

Hi Guys!

This is our latest newsletter post. Enjoy!

Gerdus will be returning from his trip within the next few days.


He bought a LOT of Stainless Steel chains and findings! (YAY!!!!). Also, a wide variety of Gemstone strings. I will write a more detailed list of products in my next newsletter as soon as he has returned. This shipment will only be here within the next 6-9 weeks (by the end of August).

On the other hand, we are expecting our shipment from the previous trip to arrive this week! Will keep you updated on all the Social Media Networks ;-)

Before I begin with my actual newsletter - there is only one subject that I would like to discuss.

If you place an order with us and you select EFT as your payment method, we will send you the banking details together with your invoice. We kindly ask that you then send the proof of payment to our fax number or email it to us directly.

As you know, sometimes EFT payments take 48 - 72 hours to reflect in your Bank Account. With that being said, we do check our banking everyday to double check for payments, BUT, we might not see it in time because of this delay. The result will then be that your parcel gets posted a day or two later.

Another thing, I have noticed that sometimes I don't actually receive the fax or email which are sent automatically when you make the payment.

I ask that you please fax AND email your proof of payment. If you don't receive any shipping confirmation from us during the day you sent the proof of payment, it is then because we did not receive it.

Client service is our (my) number one priority and I don't like technology getting in the way of it. If you do have the time, just click on the chat button on our website and say that you made the payment. I will then go and search for it. If I do have a problem, I will contact you directly.

Okay. Back to my newsletter =)

If you are just a beginner, or you want something quick and easy to make as a present, you WANT to read on.

Below is instructions on how to make your own charm bracelet.

It is easy, lots of fun and not time consuming.

Step 1 - Get all your goodies together. You will need pliers, chain, jumprings, a clasp and charms.

 

Step 2 - Determine the length of your chain. Now open the jumpring, slide your charm over, and while you are at it add the link of the chain.

        

Step 3 - Space your charms accordingly and make sure that all the jumprings are properly closed. You don't want to lose your charms!



Step 4 - Add your clasp. The normal lobster clasp is the easiest as you don't need any extra clips. You just hook it over the other end of the chain.

    

Step 5 - Brag about your creation! Remember that the principle of a charm bracelet always stays the same! You can add more charms and beads!



The charms I used in the photos will be available on our website during this week!

We still offer FREE POSTAGE** anywhere in South Africa for parcels over the value of R1000*!
*before VAT, postage and discount, up to 5kg

**South African Post Office postage, 3-5 days, insured

Log into your account to see the discounted price that you will pay!! 
Sign up here!
Let us know if you are a re-seller of our products! You will then receive more benefits! 

Receive 5% back on every order you place!
The discount will be converted into points. 2500 points = R100

Wednesday, 3 July 2013

Wire Wrapping

Gerdus just left the country to buy new stock again!


We expect our stock to be here by next week! (Holding thumbs) We will then start to unpack and list! Very Very VERY excited!!! I will let you know when the stock comes by sending a newsletter, writing a blog and posting it to Facebook.

Speaking of which, we have a Facebook page where we upload all the images of the items that will be listed within that week. So, while browsing through facebook, go and like our page or add us as a friend!

Wire wrapping has become very popular! It is creative and can be lots of fun if you want a new hobby! Below is a tutorial for simple wrapping. There are loads more designs and techniques on the internet! Make a Pendant Bail with Jewelry Wire

Faceted jade bead pendant

Materials for jade pendant
Faceted jade bead pendant
This is an example of how to make a pendant using craft wire. For this project we also use some star-shaped decorative bead caps.

Faceted jade pendant
Thread the caps and the bead
Put the wire through the caps and the bead in the proper sequence and make a decorative curl at the end of the wire.

Create the wire loop for the pendant
Create a loop for the pendant
Bend the wire at right angles approximately 4mm from the top of the pendant, and form a loop with some round-nose pliers.

Wind the wire around the stem for the pendant
Wind the wire around the stem
Hold the loop with flat needle-nose pliers and start wrapping the wire around the stem between the loop and the top of the pendant. Make sure that the winding is even.

The finished pendant
The finished pendant
The finished jade pendant is an accessory that will stand out on light colored blouses or sweaters. It will also provide good contrast on dark clothing that does not have a busy design.




We still offer FREE POSTAGE** anywhere in South Africa for parcels over the value of R1000*!
*before VAT, postage and discount, up to 5kg
**South African Post Office postage, 3-5 days, insured

Log into your account to see the discounted price that you will pay!! 
Sign up here!
Let us know if you are a re-seller of our products! You will then receive more benefits! 

Receive 5% back on every order you place!
The discount will be converted into points. 2500 points = R100